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Holy shit reaper sells this as a miniature!!!!! 

Daughter saw paint kit last night and the following exchange happened: Her:  "Whose is this"? Me:  "It's mine...I am going to try to start painting miniatures" Her:  "WHHHHHOOOOAAAAAAAA

As a beginner, I bought one of Reaper’s starter kits which includes a lot of paints, several minis and a very useful booklet which walks you through painting the miniatures, explaining various techniq

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5 hours ago, tgpumpkin said:

Yep, that is one of the two I bought. I highly recommend them to beginners. One of them comes with an empty squeeze bottle for water. So whenever the paint gets too thick or you are doing a wash, you just squeeze out a few drops of water as needed.

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Here's the set of clippers I use:  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBSFAI/   I was waaaay off on the price earlier.  They're actually $8, not $12. :)

Pictured here with a few other tools.  The x-acto handle is probably 25 years old.  The files are from Harbor Freight and were maybe $10 for the kit.  When I took this picture I was using GF9 plastic cement and not Tamiya yet.

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Other tools that I use.

1. Q-tips can save some touch up if you accidentally gloop paint somewhere - but only if you're fast.
2. ArmyPainter MOST WANTED brush set.
3. Spare empty dropper bottle for water (to thin your paints) - via Hobby Lobby
4. Bulk cheap brushes from Hobby Lobby.  DO NOT buy these on Amazon - scalpers put them up for 3x the price.
5. Disposable artist's palette.  As recommended, try a wet palette soon.

NOT SHOWN:  I've recently been buying bulk "jello shot" cups in 1oz and 2oz sizes from the party store or Amazon.  These are great for mixing paint for the airbrush, but I also mix varnish, filler, and paint for hand brushing if I only need a little dab.  I usually flip them over and mix the paint directly on the bottom of the cup.

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Last picture:

LEFT is a comparison between a "dropper bottle" and a "paint pot."  I prefer the dropper bottles as I mentioned.  Bonus points:  AP Necromancer Cloak is one of my very favorite colors - a very rich and neutral charcoal gray. 

RIGHT are some of the fillers I use. Don't worry about these yet.

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2 minutes ago, Zoxe said:

20171029_115022.thumb.jpg.9027cea0c45e3065d8a9362594ac2c30.jpg

 

Last picture:

LEFT is a comparison between a "dropper bottle" and a "paint pot."  I prefer the dropper bottles as I mentioned.  Bonus points:  AP Necromancer Cloak is one of my very favorite colors - a very rich and neutral charcoal gray. 

RIGHT are some of the fillers I use. Don't worry about these yet.

Plastic Putty????  I've got to get some.  Sometimes the injection points are left with a crappy divot.

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21 minutes ago, RomyCat said:

Yep, that is one of the two I bought. I highly recommend them to beginners. One of them comes with an empty squeeze bottle for water. So whenever the paint gets too thick or you are doing a wash, you just squeeze out a few drops of water as needed.

Yes, that looks like a great kit.  I don't see that it comes with any Washes.  You don't need them to start, but this would be a nice addon:

https://www.amazon.com/Reaper-Master-Paints-Washes-Triad/dp/B003DKTBH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525997396&sr=8-1&keywords=reaper+wash

I love reaper black wash - have been using it for my KDM pieces.  Be warned, it is potent stuff and needs to be thinned or you're effectively painting the model black.

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Just now, Zoxe said:

Yes, that looks like a great kit.  I don't see that it comes with any Washes.  You don't need them to start, but this would be a nice addon:

https://www.amazon.com/Reaper-Master-Paints-Washes-Triad/dp/B003DKTBH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525997396&sr=8-1&keywords=reaper+wash

I love reaper black wash - have been using it for my KDM pieces.  Be warned, it is potent stuff and needs to be thinned or you're effectively painting the model black.

That's why I like the Citadel Nul Oil.

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3 minutes ago, Barb Bliss said:

Plastic Putty????  I've got to get some.  Sometimes the injection points are left with a crappy divot.

 

Plastic Putty is neat stuff.  It's like applying elmer's glue. Very sticky and very thick.  Dries white.  Cleans up with water and is thinnable like paint.  It shrinks a little so sometimes it takes two dabs.  I use it to fill seams between mating parts and a little bit of sculpting:  Get your brush wet, then grab a dollup of Putty (unthinned) into the area. Try not to make a mess.  Then clean your brush with water, dry it off slightly, and then feather the edges where the putty merges to the part to hide the seam.  If you don't feather the edge, you'll get "ponding" marks as it dries.

You can also build texture with Plastic Putty if you dab it and then pull it - like meringue on a pie. 

I use the Vallejo Varnish to fill minor voids in the same way.  Often I use them together: Plastic putty first, it will shrink and not completely fill, then build up a layer or three of the varnish to completely hide the seam.

For really big voids and gaps I use milliput, which is a whole 'nother post.  

 

Here's my KDM Phoenix - before filling.

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In this picture, the yellow filler is Milliput, the white is Plastic Putty.

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After the first coat of paint for comparison. The seams vanished - very happy.

IMG_20180108_180036_1.thumb.jpg.462c558ba8e439219c54da1624cb65a5.jpg

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10 minutes ago, Barb Bliss said:

That's why I like the Citadel Nul Oil.

Reaper has an equivalent to Nuln Oil that's more transparent than their Black Wash, but I won't be able to cite the name from memory.  The ArmyPainter washes are pretty good too.

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1 hour ago, Zoxe said:

Yes, that looks like a great kit.  I don't see that it comes with any Washes.  You don't need them to start, but this would be a nice addon:

https://www.amazon.com/Reaper-Master-Paints-Washes-Triad/dp/B003DKTBH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525997396&sr=8-1&keywords=reaper+wash

I love reaper black wash - have been using it for my KDM pieces.  Be warned, it is potent stuff and needs to be thinned or you're effectively painting the model black.

You learn in one of the kits how to make a wash with any paint. Just water down you color a lot--black, of course, is used a lot.  Washing has become my favorite stage of painting. I love how it takes a plain figure and makes it more lifelike with shadow and depth. 

Edited by RomyCat
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32 minutes ago, RomyCat said:

You learn in one of the kits how to make a wash with any paint. Just water down you color a lot--black, of course, is used a lot.  Washing has become my favorite stage of painting. I love how it takes an plain figure and makes it more lifelike with shadow and depth. 

I did 2 reactions, so of course I'm not out of reactions.  Heart!

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9 hours ago, tgpumpkin said:

So with all these recommendations I’m wondering if I should start a new thread entitled “fill up tgs Amazon cart”. ;) 

It's an adventure, not a sprint. ?

Seriously, the reaper kit, glue, and some disposable household items (paper towels, solo cups) are a great place to start. 

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3 hours ago, tgpumpkin said:

Any special kind of glue?

Plastic = plastic cement. I like Tamiya. Other brands work too.

Resin = superglue. 

Metal = superglue.

Reaper bones material is a little different.  I haven't worked with it yet, but Google says superglue.

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3 minutes ago, tgpumpkin said:

@Zoxe should I not get the bones kit then since it's a different material?

Bones material is fine, just be aware it apparently prefers superglue. ?  I think that reaper kit is a great value and am jealous I didn't find it when we started.

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17 minutes ago, tgpumpkin said:

I’m assuming that this is the quality of work I should expect after trying it out for the first time yes?  

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Yes, totally. :)  Including all the logos and words that hover around your mini. Those aren't photoshopped, first timers actually paint them in the air. :P

 

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I've not needed any glue yet myself. Only used wood glue when putting together Broken Tokens after staining them. Many minis don't need glue or assembly. Get Kingdom Death Monster and you will spend half of your lifetime  putting those together, or so it seems from reading posts. ? I don't own the game myself.

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