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Konas

Miniature Painting

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28 minutes ago, Konas said:

Ah, yes, I see it now. I am very excited to try this method with little touches of my own style. I use a lot of washes now, sometimes only using them and dry brushing. Works well and it is quick. It's got to be fairly quick for me for all regular models. 

PS. That thing we discussed earlier via email is a go. Keep it on the DL for now por favor.

I hate when you do crap like this.  🤬

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4 minutes ago, Barb Bliss said:

I hate when you do crap like this.  🤬

I asked Zoxe his advice for an XMas gift. It is non-Underdog related, it was just easier to reply to him here. 😉

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2 minutes ago, Konas said:

I asked Zoxe his advice for an XMas gift. It is non-Underdog related, it was just easier to reply to him here. 😉

How thoughtful to think of me this holiday season.

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2 minutes ago, Barb Bliss said:

It is non-Underdog related

 

2 minutes ago, Barb Bliss said:

How thoughtful to think of me this holiday season.

Nice try

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7 minutes ago, Konas said:

I asked Zoxe his advice for an XMas gift. It is non-Underdog related, it was just easier to reply to him here. 😉

It's about our gaming tables for hitting 1000 pages, right? :D

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Just now, Thomas Browne said:

It's about our gaming tables for hitting 1000 pages, right? :D

Well, you are consistent.

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1 minute ago, Thomas Browne said:

It's about our gaming tables for hitting 1000 pages, right? :D

And this...

Cutest-Beating-Dead-Horse-GIF.gif

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7 minutes ago, Konas said:

And this...

Cutest-Beating-Dead-Horse-GIF.gif

Well beating a live one is too hard, because they run faster than I do :D  The dead ones are the only ones I can catch.

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3 hours ago, Konas said:

 

PS. That thing we discussed earlier via email is a go. Keep it on the DL for now por favor.

The blind crow barks at midnight. Wink. Wink.  But they only walk in single file to hide their numbers. Nod nod.

 

PS:  That totally doesn't mean anything at all, I'm just doing it to screw with you. :P

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1 hour ago, Zoxe said:

The blind crow barks at midnight. Wink. Wink.  But they only walk in single file to hide their numbers. Nod nod.

 

PS:  That totally doesn't mean anything at all, I'm just doing it to screw with you. :P

Good thing you put that p.s. in there.  I was trying to figure out what barking crows had to do with sand people.

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On 12/9/2019 at 1:48 PM, Konas said:

Ah, yes, I see it now. I am very excited to try this method with little touches of my own style. I use a lot of washes now, sometimes only using them and dry brushing. Works well and it is quick. It's got to be fairly quick for me for all regular models. 

PS. That thing we discussed earlier via email is a go. Keep it on the DL for now por favor.

More unasked for advice!  

Primer:

I'm currently using Stynlrez for all HIPS (high impact polystyrene aka "plastic") and metal minis.  Shake well and pour it straight from the bottle into the airbrush cup, no thinning.  

For most resin, I'm using Vallejo Surface Primer.  I do thin this a little bit before shooting with vallejo thinner.  Stynlrez is supposed to be formulated for resin, but personally I've found that VSP sticks better to hard/slick resin.  Said another way: I've never had VSP come off, and I have had Stynlrez peel and chip from certain brands of resin.  (There are a lot of types of resin, your mileage may vary).

When airbrushing primer, I normally start with all the underbits and hard to reach areas underneath, then work horizontal, and then from the top down. It seems like I miss fewer surfaces this way.

If there are places that the airbrush just won't reach, let the primer cure and then come back with a hand brush dab some primer up in there.

I let primer cure at least 24 hours before applying base coats.

Primer really doesn't need to be fully opaque to do its job.  You just need enough for the next layer to stick to.  However, I prime in black and it's forming the base color of my color stack; i.e. I want a consistent surface.

Surface prep:

For the primers above, I'm currently not washing HIPS at all, unless I've got a good reason (like: I ate fried chicken before assembly, yes have done it).  Primer seems to adhere just fine, and washing can cause more issues if water seeps between parts (i.e. if the model is hollow, yes have had a model pee on me almost a week after washing!).

I dunk resin in isopropyl alchohol and scrub with an old toothbrush.  Rinse with warm water and let dry at least 24 hours.  The alcohol will strip off all mold release better than dish soap.

Metal minis get a toothbrush and hot running tap water to knock off the talc they use in the mold.

I scrape mold lines on all parts BEFORE assembly to get rid of lines that will be hard to get to after the model is together.  Usually I use the back of an X-Acto knife to scrape, though I also have the citadel mold line scraper which is a) a little more comfortable, b) curved for cylindrical parts, c) not sharp at the nose so you don't scrape adjacent surfaces by accident

Assembly:

Superglue (I like loctite gel with the hard plastic bottle and squeezable "fins", available at walmart) for resin and metal.  

Tamiya Thin Cement is the shiznit for HIPS.  There's a little brush in the lid that lets you put the cement where you want it.  

 

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11 hours ago, Zoxe said:

More unasked for advice!  

Primer:

I'm currently using Stynlrez for all HIPS (high impact polystyrene aka "plastic") and metal minis.  Shake well and pour it straight from the bottle into the airbrush cup, no thinning.  

For most resin, I'm using Vallejo Surface Primer.  I do thin this a little bit before shooting with vallejo thinner.  Stynlrez is supposed to be formulated for resin, but personally I've found that VSP sticks better to hard/slick resin.  Said another way: I've never had VSP come off, and I have had Stynlrez peel and chip from certain brands of resin.  (There are a lot of types of resin, your mileage may vary).

When airbrushing primer, I normally start with all the underbits and hard to reach areas underneath, then work horizontal, and then from the top down. It seems like I miss fewer surfaces this way.

If there are places that the airbrush just won't reach, let the primer cure and then come back with a hand brush dab some primer up in there.

I let primer cure at least 24 hours before applying base coats.

Primer really doesn't need to be fully opaque to do its job.  You just need enough for the next layer to stick to.  However, I prime in black and it's forming the base color of my color stack; i.e. I want a consistent surface.

Surface prep:

For the primers above, I'm currently not washing HIPS at all, unless I've got a good reason (like: I ate fried chicken before assembly, yes have done it).  Primer seems to adhere just fine, and washing can cause more issues if water seeps between parts (i.e. if the model is hollow, yes have had a model pee on me almost a week after washing!).

I dunk resin in isopropyl alchohol and scrub with an old toothbrush.  Rinse with warm water and let dry at least 24 hours.  The alcohol will strip off all mold release better than dish soap.

Metal minis get a toothbrush and hot running tap water to knock off the talc they use in the mold.

I scrape mold lines on all parts BEFORE assembly to get rid of lines that will be hard to get to after the model is together.  Usually I use the back of an X-Acto knife to scrape, though I also have the citadel mold line scraper which is a) a little more comfortable, b) curved for cylindrical parts, c) not sharp at the nose so you don't scrape adjacent surfaces by accident

Assembly:

Superglue (I like loctite gel with the hard plastic bottle and squeezable "fins", available at walmart) for resin and metal.  

Tamiya Thin Cement is the shiznit for HIPS.  There's a little brush in the lid that lets you put the cement where you want it.  

 

Copied onto my 'Zoxe painting' doc. Thanks for this. I was going to ask about glue for metals. I am signed up for the Privateer Press mini crate for L5R minis, which are extremely cool, but really tough metals to glue up. I will try the Loctite.

A question: On your blog, you stated a while ago that the compressor you used was an inexpensive one from Amazon. I ordered it but it never got to me and I have held off on ordering again. Is this still your recommendation?

Also, for any of you that haven't checked it out, tons of info is available on Zoxe's blog:

https://zoxes.blogspot.com/

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Just now, Konas said:

Copied onto my 'Zoxe painting' doc. Thanks for this. I was going to ask about glue for metals. I am signed up for the Privateer Press mini crate for L5R minis, which are extremely cool, but really tough metals to glue up. I will try the Loctite.

A question: On your blog, you stated a while ago that the compressor you used was an inexpensive one from Amazon. I ordered it but it never got to me and I have held off on ordering again. Is this still your recommendation?

Also, for any of you that haven't checked it out, tons of info is available on Zoxe's blog:

https://zoxes.blogspot.com/

I use loctite for everything now.

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1 minute ago, Barb Bliss said:

I use loctite for everything now.

Excellent to hear. Ordered.

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3 hours ago, Konas said:

Copied onto my 'Zoxe painting' doc. Thanks for this. I was going to ask about glue for metals. I am signed up for the Privateer Press mini crate for L5R minis, which are extremely cool, but really tough metals to glue up. I will try the Loctite.

A question: On your blog, you stated a while ago that the compressor you used was an inexpensive one from Amazon. I ordered it but it never got to me and I have held off on ordering again. Is this still your recommendation?

Also, for any of you that haven't checked it out, tons of info is available on Zoxe's blog:

https://zoxes.blogspot.com/

 

I still do recommend that compressor!  We still have it and still use it for classes if we both need to be airbrushing at once. Our regulator was stuck for several years and couldn't adjust PSI but we managed to break it free last year.  Otherwise it has always sprayed just fine.

I'm told the main difference between those cheap compressors and the Badger ones that look identical is that Ken at Badger tears his down and replaces the bearings and other parts for a longer life. Ours is still running after 3? Years of intermittent use. 

Our main compressor now is a badger aspire with a tank. Main difference is a note consistent stream of paint with less pulsing. (I never noticed the pulsing until I went back ad used the old one, tbh). 

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I will also third the picture super glue love the stuff.

And those tankless compressors are good but like zoxe said having a tank helps ensure a constant pressure and flow so doesn't fluctuate like a tankless does as the piston moves back and forth. Personally I use a small shop compressor that has I think a 3 gallon tank but I also added a old 20lb propane tank (heavily cleaned) as a secondary storage tank so I can airbrush for awhile without the compressor running. This does mean it takes me a but to fill the tanks before starting to avoid overheating the small compressor.

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I'm getting some time at the bench while off for the Holidays (just a few days, not the whole two weeks).  I'm doing some assembly for Kingdom Death before I batch prime a bunch of stuff.

Green Armor expansion has some of the hardest minis to assemble.  The detail and sculpting is phenomenal but ugh, what a slog. Each head is 3 pieces. Each arm is 3 (arm, forarm, hand). The female skirt was 5 pieces. 

20191222_174659.thumb.jpg.c97036fbfbcb167d800686713c5b6d85.jpg20191222_174708_001.thumb.jpg.8b3c1361df0c30e9ea98a9cc684acb88.jpg20191222_174739.thumb.jpg.f1985cd0aa2d22936a86a7029774c89c.jpg

I also decided to make Gorm a little nicer and hide some of my putty work with layers of varnish. I partially primed him to show what needed attention. The white stuff in the pic is Vallejo Matte varnish. It takes several layers to do much but I can finally see some improvement.

20191222_101947.thumb.jpg.cb1ad6c7c27e11483f297704c678cf2b.jpg

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4 hours ago, Zoxe said:

I'm getting some time at the bench while off for the Holidays (just a few days, not the whole two weeks).  I'm doing some assembly for Kingdom Death before I batch prime a bunch of stuff.

Green Armor expansion has some of the hardest minis to assemble.  The detail and sculpting is phenomenal but ugh, what a slog. Each head is 3 pieces. Each arm is 3 (arm, forarm, hand). The female skirt was 5 pieces. 

20191222_174659.thumb.jpg.c97036fbfbcb167d800686713c5b6d85.jpg20191222_174708_001.thumb.jpg.8b3c1361df0c30e9ea98a9cc684acb88.jpg20191222_174739.thumb.jpg.f1985cd0aa2d22936a86a7029774c89c.jpg

I also decided to make Gorm a little nicer and hide some of my putty work with layers of varnish. I partially primed him to show what needed attention. The white stuff in the pic is Vallejo Matte varnish. It takes several layers to do much but I can finally see some improvement.

20191222_101947.thumb.jpg.cb1ad6c7c27e11483f297704c678cf2b.jpg

Those minis sound like something I would never end up building lol.

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2 hours ago, marsniper_27 said:

Those minis sound like something I would never end up building lol.

I can honestly say that I wouldn't have been able to do it if I hadn't been wearing my reading glasses.  :)

 

The Green Armor is now together.  Gorm is glued to his base (needs to cure overnight; I used epoxy for strength).  I also have the Flower Knight assembled.  There's brandy in my glass, and I think I may drink it and take a nap.

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I finished up Grimm Forest minis.  They were half done before I got sidetracked with War in Christmas Village.

The Troll!

image.png.5e56915a257bba50d170bedbb1b8a070.pngimage.png.c41e9fa80a2637510dd39c004c687e78.png

 

The Giant!

image.thumb.png.4e0ddaab54173f6538420c0f2a88534d.pngimage.png.46fabe70bf63e8af5fcb590dddb52fa4.png 

 

The wolves!

image.png.aea32a86d0c2e537a709a2f8f752eb38.png

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11 minutes ago, Barb Bliss said:

I finished up Grimm Forest minis.  They were half done before I got sidetracked with War in Christmas Village.

The Troll!

image.png.5e56915a257bba50d170bedbb1b8a070.pngimage.png.c41e9fa80a2637510dd39c004c687e78.png

 

The Giant!

image.thumb.png.4e0ddaab54173f6538420c0f2a88534d.pngimage.png.46fabe70bf63e8af5fcb590dddb52fa4.png 

 

The wolves!

image.png.aea32a86d0c2e537a709a2f8f752eb38.png

Love the giant. Nice work. I have to hand it to you, Barb, you are the most consistent painter of the bunch. You definitely kick out a lot more work then I do.

Is that a bottle of Auschentoshen in the background?

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Just now, Konas said:

Love the giant. Nice work. I have to hand it to you, Barb, you are the most consistent painter of the bunch. You definitely kick out a lot more work then I do.

Is that a bottle of Auschentoshen in the background?

Yes.  It has a spalty skull stopper, so it looks good too.

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