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Blinkus Maximus

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Posts posted by Blinkus Maximus

  1. 6 hours ago, Zoe said:

    Oh man, that IS an awesome backdrop + stand!!!

    I remember wrapping yours up. There's some nice chatoyancy/holographic-ness to that Bubinga, particularly on the sculpt. Depending on the light, it may be hard to see it with the sheen of the finish. That tower is just gorgeous, though. Our team is doing amazing work. :)

    The sheen from the finish makes it hard to see in direct light, but there is definitely a slight holographic effect on it in dimmer, indirect light and it's gorgeous! I especially love the effect right around the engraved runes on the face giving it a slight "magical" look from certain angles.

  2. The beautiful dice tower arrived today, and I couldn't be more pleased.

    I love the extra little cosmetic details y'all touched on between the prototype and this. Having the felt nicely lay in so that it's completely surrounded by a frame of wood all around makes it feel just that extra bit more premium. The carving and engraving are beautiful and defined perfectly, and I can definitely tell the entire piece is carved from one block of wood (either that or someone spent a good deal of time finding pieces with grain that matches perfectly.

    Also, it makes a wonderful backdrop for model pictures.

    Keep up the outstanding work Dog Might!

     

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  3. @Barb Bliss That stuff is all looking great. On the eyes, it really just takes practice. Endless practice. And still having to go back and redo them all the time no matter how much you practice because doing eyes is easily top 3 hardest things to do on minis. It's the reason most people painting gaming pieces just don't paint them at all. A smaller brush definitely helps (just not too small, as discussed in Meg's tutorial below), but really it's just neverending practice. If you want to work on them, there are a few methods to go for, depending on what works for you. Just getting started on eyes, it's a safe idea to stop after putting the black in for the pupil until you feel comfortable adding another step (and another chance to make a mistake and have to start over).

    Meg's 6 Step Eyes: http://www.arcanepaintworks.com/blog-1/2016/6/9/6-step-eyes

    Marike's Eyes: http://www.destroyerminis.com/paintingeyes/

     

    And on painting that nose ring after varnish, you absolutely can. Varnish is basically a clear-coat primer, so it'll grab and hold paint very well.

  4. Merry New Year everyone! I too have finally gotten back to painting after a slump of no motivation. Luckily, new minis being announced all over have gotten me excited to return and get my skills back up to snuff before they hit the painting table, so I've actually finished things. And the cold nights over the weekend made for nights in with tea and paint. It hasn't been -5, just a balmy 15, but the wife isn't a huge fan of anything under 40 so we had a nice weekend in with crafts and games.

    @Barb Bliss Love seeing your new stuff. I can definitely see improvement with each update, especially on skin! It's looking better with every mini! Keep up the excellent work.

    @Zoxe I've started dipping into my backlog of unpainted Warhammer minis to finish up half-complete paintjobs and stuff that I bought 2 years ago and didn't even prime :/ I'll probably take a break here and there to do some of my stuff from Hordes and random things I bought to put on a display shelf though. I definitely have more than enough plastic/resin/metal to keep me occupied for the rest of the year, and much more coming from Kickstarter in the spring (I have a problem...)

    This weekend I did up this guy, a Tzaangor Shaman from Games Workshop. Not too happy with the tabard, so I'll probably go back and redo it at some point, but for now it looks pretty good in the case. It also needs some touch-ups on the horns.

     

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  5. 1 hour ago, Thomas Browne said:

    I'm really upset at myself though as I dropped one of the small pieces of the Butcher (shoulder piece) and can't find the stupid thing.  I'm still hoping it will turn up.

    This is my personal nightmare every time I assemble a new mini. It's part of the reason I build all of my models on a table with a lip and keep a flashlight and tweezers on the table to search for dropped pieces immediately.

  6. 15 hours ago, Zoxe said:

    I am jealous.  We are pretty much working strait through the holiday break.  Add to that some far too extensive travel (to spend far too little time with family) and we'll barely be home except on Christmas Day.  I did however, carefully guard one precious vacation day for the 26th and hope to spend the day at the bench painting/assembling more Kingdom Death.

    I'm at a point with KDM where I need to finish one model that's giving me trouble in assembly that will require some pretty extensive filling but haven't been able to get motivated.  I just accidentally crammed 1/4" of x-acto blade under my thumbnail at the base, so I'm done for the night!

     

    I just got some serious chills reading that. I am well acquainted with that pain.

  7. I mean, I completely missed the CoCo kickstarter and couldn't afford the late pledging either because I was too busy backing other stuff you guys make, and also buying a dice box, but I'm eagerly awaiting their arrival on the store so I can order a few next winter. Me and the wife are huge fans of games that have a million tokens, cards and other stuff, so those things are a godsend.

    As for favorite, I really like the dice rolling trays because they just look so great and I would love to have one hanging above my painting area outside game night. Hoping to get one of those next year sometime too.

  8. On ‎11‎/‎7‎/‎2017 at 7:13 AM, Blinkus Maximus said:

    I'll just be sitting over here waiting to see if it will come in Bubinga with a Phoenix design.

    Life is good. Life is very good.

    Now I just need to see if my friends want in to get that sweet sweet Premium 4 pack so we can rock game night in style.

  9. Just now, Barb Bliss said:

    After the decor, I went with the biggest mini cause I thought it would be easiest.  Now I'm thinking I had that back assword.

    Eh, I'd say half and half.

    I personally love big monsters because they're a great place to work on doing fun effects before you try to put them on a little mini. Because they're bigger, you can try new things like tattoos, magic effects and changing skin color and it won't look as bad on a big guy if you don't get it right. If you do the same on a small model and don't get it quite right, it can look like you accidentally hit the mini with the wrong color paint rather than a cool detail. They're also more forgiving to shaky hands because there usually aren't as many small details that might accidentally get covered up by a tiny slip of the brush the wrong direction.

    But, little minis can be a little more forgiving in general. It doesn't take as much time or work to get solid colors that you can't see the undercoat through, like you did when you first started the cyclops; bigger models mean bigger areas that take more paint to completely cover, and it's much more important to keep your paints thin so you don't leave brush marks. On little guys you can also take some shortcuts to get effects that you can't do on bigger models. Doing a wash on big model skin to get your shading leaves that dirty look, which is awesome if you want it, but if you prefer a cleaner look you either have to do recess shading or clean up a bit after a big wash. On a little mini that wash won't leave as much of a dirty look because there aren't big skin areas for the wash to pool on, so it won't leave marks where you don't necessarily want them to be.

  10. 1 minute ago, Barb Bliss said:

    The "moss wash" took a little bit of the black wash out of the cracks, but I was getting too antsy to start on an actual figure to go back and try to get the cracks darker without screwing up the rock faces.  I didn't think about doing that to the belt et. al.  I'll have to try that a little.  The problem with Massive Darkness is the minis are either really big or kind of small.

    Dang you weren't kidding, there isn't much in between little people and huge monsters. At least you'll get experience doing a little bit of everything with that set, especially with the variation in the monsters.

  11. 1 minute ago, Barb Bliss said:

    What do you think about the cliffbreaker cyclops?  I'd like a do over with is face.  I actually did a do over on his face, but it only helped so much.  There was so much flesh area, I never felt good about it, but it came out ok if you assume he'd be a dirty guy.

    The skin looks pretty good, definitely better than I could do when I started. Skin, and especially faces, are really tough to get right. They take a lot of practice, A LOT.

    The stone looks great, only thing I can recommend on that is getting a bit darker shading in the cuts and recesses to make the highlights pop out even more, like what you have on the bridges. Do the same for the metal and belts and such and it'll bring out all that detail and look really good on the tabletop. If you want, you can also put a thin, brown wash over the teeth and it'll help separate them and give them better shape as well.

  12. 1 minute ago, Barb Bliss said:

    Yeah, unfortunately they are all molded together.  So far, I started out painting the base.  Then I put a full coat of "dead flesh" over the entire figure.  Then I painted the eyeballs, claws, and blemishes.  Then I spread a red wash all over the thing sans the eyeballs and blemishes.  It actually is starting to look bad ass.  I've decided to be done with the "under carriage" at this point.  I'm going to concoct some purple wash and put that over the top two thirds of the body, and then thin it and do another inch down from there.  Then start picking out details to add some paint to.

    Nice! I can't wait to see what you did with them!

  13. On ‎11‎/‎3‎/‎2017 at 7:46 AM, Barb Bliss said:

    Makes sense, but look at these things.  Not even sure how I would do that.

    image.png.a1c76121574244bf2d0d41273cefb7ef.pngimage.png.c9d694c2ccc868939369ce9b35365eb3.png

    Honestly, with them, I would say leave them off the base until you're done painting them as well. Maybe stick them to a cork with some super glue so you can pop them off after painting or get some stickytac putty to put them on. If you have an extra base lying around you can stick them to that with a few little drops of super glue and pop them off when you're done too. If you're worried about the glue not releasing and breaking legs or something, throw the finished model in the freezer for 5 or 10 minutes and it will weaken the superglue enough that it'll snap off no problem.

     

    Wait, just saw they come on bases. That's odd... Anyways, might be possible if you have a saw to remove them carefully. If not, you might just have to be very very careful painting the base. Sorry, I thought they came separate because it looked like there were little gaps between the model and the base.

  14. 22 minutes ago, Barb Bliss said:

    Not a paladin I would want to clean up after or feed.

    It definitely takes getting used to lol.

    9 minutes ago, Serge Darveau said:

    I've two dogs over 100 pounds, my NewF/Berneese/Labrador over 150 pounds, and I'm not buying puppy chow small bag meat....:D

    I can only imagine how much food you go through. We go through 30 pounds a month as it is.

  15. Yeah, I think I preferred the look of DinoGenics before the multi-color meeples and colored fences. I know it's just personal preference, but I liked the older feel of it with plain white walls for the pens and all green dinos, and it feels like the different colors and upgraded walls are things they just added because they felt like they had to have more stretch goals, when really they didn't need anything more after the upgraded boards and tokens.

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