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Zoxe

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Everything posted by Zoxe

  1. Game table: Kingdom Death: Monster, awaiting the resumption of our campaign. For bonus points: Dropfleet Commander is on my hobby table; I really should crack open the Battlefleet Box expansion pack I bought and poke around. But I'm scared at how many sprues it'll contain.
  2. There are a few Kickstarters for mini-hoarders out there (you know who you are! hah!). Frozen Ninja will be opening soon. We met them at ReaperCon - super nice and their stuff looks great in person. I hope this link to the preview page works correctly.... https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1665755336/1520272196?ref=591486&token=0024b67f Not familiar with this company, but the sculpt looks great and he uses Oreos for scale! How cool is that? (sooooo hungry now). Scale75 makes some awesome stuff. We raided their booth at ReaperCon. I actually used their metallic paints for the first time yesterday and am in love.
  3. There are a ton of variables in play. A really subtle wash (like your first mix) can be very useful for drawing out fine detail, for example. And if it's not intense enough, just apply another layer of wash. There are a lot of painters that build up several very thin layers to get the result they want. Lately, I've been more inclined to start with a premixed wash that's a little more opaque (Reaper Black Wash is a really deep blue/black) and thinning it just a bit to let the highlights pop through. I did most of my Kingdom Death this way. Most recently, I've been trying to use even more potent washes but applying them ONLY where I want a shadow. So I'll actually take a premixed wash, add a dollup of paint to amp it up, and then lay that into a recess. Using a 2nd clean (or slightly damp) brush, I then feather the edges and move the pigment where it wants to go and erase the "ponding" marks that will result if you let the edge dry naturally. The third method sounds like more work, but since I'm building highlights with the airbrush, and then I build shadows in the recesses only where I want them, I can skip the dry brush/highlighting step at the end. This is how I did the doomsday device that I posted earlier. If you were inclined, I would recommend a Miniature Monthly Patreon and then watching Lessons #16-18 for weathering and washe. I've seen the video 2-3 times now and have taken Aaron's weathering class twice. It's changed how I paint.
  4. I put Reaper products into the same category as DMG - companies that I wish I'd known about much sooner! Honestly, we fell in love with Reaper paints at PAX Unplugged last year. Stopped and talked at their booth for quite awhile, spent a lot, and have been slowly converting my paint rack since then. What brand of paint are you using?
  5. I agree with Barb that testing on the back of the hand is useful to judge how much is on the brush. It sounds like maybe you're asking about color selection. Two things: 1. I have been known to do quick test pieces to test color combinations to get the full "color stack" before I commit to a model. Use sprues, discarded extra parts, popsicle sticks, whatever. With a good brush on primer, it doesn't take long to messily dab some paint on something to see if you like the result. When I did the Tin Man for the Shadows of Brimstone contest, I actually painted some extra models with 3 different combinations of colors and then picked the one I liked best for the contest piece. 2. Reaper sells "triads." This takes the guesswork out. For my Kingdom Death contest entry for Miniature Monthly, I knew I wanted his sash to be teal, but I had no teal paint. Reaper sold a 3-pack blister of paints that got me 90% there - I still needed to shade down the dark paint to be darker and the lightest needed to be brighter in a few places (so I took their 3 pack and made 5 colors from it). (I'm really not trying to be a Reaper sales promoter, honest!) Aha, I see your reply. Honestly, knowing when you're "done" is always subjective. I try to do just a little more than what I think I need. Hold the model at arm's length (not under your desk light) to see how it looks in the room. Also, our acrylic paints always lose a little bit of intensity (aka saturation) as they dry - so that wash that looks great wet will be less intense dry, and that dry brushing that looks wonderful will "dry in" and be less obvious.
  6. While we've been slowly shifting towards Reaper's paints over the past year or so, I really don't have that much hands-on with the white Bones material.* At ReaperCon classes, the folks were simply applying Reaper paints directly to Bones - straight from the blister pack -- usually without any thinning (i.e. whatever water was coming thru the wet palette or maybe with a wet brush). I shrugged and followed the crowd and my paint came out pretty well. I'll also add that I was grabbing the #9064 Brown "liner" and using that for a dark basecoat to work from. Reaper paint tends to be thinner than others, meaning most of the time at home I just put a drop on my palette and start painting (if I want thinner paint, I pull from the bottom of the bubble directly against the parchment paper, if I want thicker, I pull from the top). Are you thinning your paint with water? Bones is a little hydrophobic, so water will fight you a little bit if you're using a lot to thin your paint. This post may help: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48669-bones-the-first-coat-is-the-difference/ Lastly, I know there's a lot of myth and legend about paint that sticks and whether you need to wash it or prime it. Lately I've been in the "better safe than sorry" camp and have been hitting almost everything with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol, rinsing with water, and letting dry for a day (or three if there are a lot of recesses). I will probably do the same with Bones. *Note: Most of what I've painted is from Kingdom Death, Shadows of Brimstone, or Dropfleet Commander. For those, I use a black primer (Vallejo Surface Primer or - most recently - Stynlrez). I do have some Bones on deck and Bones IV will be fulfilled soon!
  7. You might try reaper Neon Yellow. https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/yellow/latest/09287 I've not used it, but held a bottle at reapercon. It's bright!
  8. Honestly, it wasn't about losing our grip (although after I dropped a brush full of paint on the carpet this morning, I should think about it for my brushes, hah) ... the duct tape was a cheap/easy way of hiding our names (and dosages) before we accidentally posted a work in progress online. Duckies were just bonus points.
  9. Hot off the desk -- Shadows of Brimstone Doomsday Device. This is basically terrain - it replaces a cardboard token with a resin piece. A couple of WIP shots and then the (poorly lit) finished picture on a typical game tile.
  10. Me either! 2034 is going to be a great year.
  11. Sure. ? Phones have onboard storage space. Your pictures, web bookmarks, games/apps, whatever goes there. When its full, cant take pictures. When it comes time to offload pics, I insert a cord and open the phone on my laptop. The cloud storage option means that the phone company is transmitting your pictures and other data wirelessly thru their network behind the scenes and to a data server somewhere. The advantage is that the newest generation using this tech will never run out of space for pictures as long as it has a connection. The disadvantage is that I get queasy about where that data is going, how long it persists, or what it might be used for. And by default, be aware that a lot if this cloud capability is going to be turned on for new phones. I find that obnoxious and intrusive. I had to fight with this Samsung for 6mo to finally stop whatever was feeding the Verizon cloud. This is just a lot of my own opinions about the "big data" economy that we currently live in that's now spilling into your nice little forum thread. Don't let my own misgivings and rampant paranoia spread to you. But in particular, I see the new Pixel commercials advocating these features as a cornerstone of how their product now works and I think "oh hellllllllll no." #grumpyoldman #frikkinmillenials
  12. I'm woth you Barb. I have been tempted to revert back to a flip phone but haven't had the gumption to do it yet. I don't do social media (FB, LinkedIn, Instagram, or other), but would lose my whatsapp family group. Maybe someday I'll downgrade. We use Verizon. It's not the cheapest, but the coverage is great by us. I was on Sprint ages ago, and we could drive down the road with Mrs. Zoxes Verizon phone and watch mine go in and out of service while hers held steady. More recently, friends and family that dropped Verizon for other types of services quickly came back. But, we can't seem to get coverage at my in-laws house, despite being in a fairly metro area, so your experiences may vary. I've got an android (Samsung) for personal and work makes me carry an iPhone. I prefer the android, but it's what I'm used to. I am due for an upgrade - This Samsung S6 is chugging a little bit. Read the fine print on cloud storage. I firmly want to be in control of my data. From what little I know, the pixel relies heavily on cloud storage, and if so I would personally balk at that, but check it out for yourself. Since you paint minis, check the camera specs. All the pics I take are with this phone. I use a different camera app to get more options for exposure levels, but my phone long ago surpassed our digital camera in quality.
  13. Love it overall but wanted to give you a big highfive for the basing. I see some ideas I'm going to steal!
  14. Thought I would break this response out into its own forum thread so it's not buried on page 7 of the miniatures painting feed. I can tell you how I set up my airbrushing, but the big horrible disclaimer is that this is just how I did it and there are many many opinions out there from folks with far more experience than me. However, just googling "beginner airbrushing" yields overwhelming results. Background: My goals setting out were simply to get away from rattle can priming. I had some disastrous results with AP White rattle can on some fairly expensive and hard to get Shadows of Brimstone resins that actually put me off of mini painting for 6+ months. But, I had Kingdom Death inbound from KS and had to figure out how I was going to get the game painted up. So, reluctantly, I turned to airbrushing. I wanted to do this fairly cheaply (I wasn't convinced I'd stay with it) and due to the overwhelming/conflicting information out there wanted something fairly turnkey. I also knew that I was going to be doing low-volume work (compared to a pro painter doing several dozen or hundreds of commissions a year) and did NOT need a lot of fine detail. Equipment: Master Airbrush Kit (Amazon, $80) - Comes with most everything needed - compressor, airhose, brush. The compressor isn't horribly loud, but the regulator on it really has no discernible PSI adjustment. The airbrush that comes in the kit is fairly clunky; I haven't used it yet but may dedicate it to varnish or other things that are hard to clean Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner (16 Oz.) 4 SET Airbrush Spray Gun Wash Cleaning Tools Needle Nozzle Brush Glass Cleaning Pot Holder (Amazon) These 3 items are the "Frequently bought together" on Amazon and are the bare-bones basics to get you started. Badger 105 airbrush - Impulse buy that I don't regret. I had several brushes in my Amazon cart for weeks - H&S, Iwata, etc. My opinion is that with a good name brand you really can't go wrong, but the thought of shelling out $250+ for an airbrush seemed a bit harsh. I bought the Badger 105 simply because it was far cheaper, and it was the one featured in Miniature Monthly's videos (I could watch my exact airbrush be disassembled and cleaned). See also below. Spare braided hose - Badger, via Amazon Separate water separator/filter in between the two hoses (also required an $8 adapter set sourced from Amazon). Quick Disconnect Squeeze bottle to put cleaner in Misc stuff: Paper towels, disposable brushes (to mix thinned paint), 1 oz disposable jello shot cups to mix paint in, and some latex gloves that I said I'd wear but never do Airbrush Booth: If you're going to airbrush indoors, a good well lit and filtered booth is going to be nice. The airbrush will leave "dust" behind even if you spray into a cardboard box. I tried this cheap one from Amazon (sensing a trend?) and like it. There are youtube videos for homemade versions, though. Warning: This same model of booth is currently on Amazon under various "brands" - they are identical but the price varies. This one seems to be the cheapest version of the same item. Again, this is how I did it. It's working for me. I have a fair amount of $$ wrapped up in this, but far less than going "super premium" straight out of the gate. Lastly, there are a LOT of youtube videos out there for free, but I very much recommend backing Miniature Monthly on Patreon. Aaron is the factory painter for Shadows of Brimstone, and Elizabeth Beckley does commissions for Ninja Division and (since GenCon2017) Kingdom Death. Much of their painting techniques are FAR (far, far, FAR) beyond anything I intend to tackle, but their beginners guides for Airbrushing and Cleaning Airbrushes as well as the recent videos on how to prep models have really really helped me. At $10/mo, it's a good investment for me. I'll close out with a few pictures. The KDM ones are repeats, but the Shadows of Brimstone Autocannons are new.
  15. I don't recall him being there last year. At Gencon and Reapercon he's listed as Badger. What link are you using to view the PAXU vendors? I looked, but couldn't find it.
  16. Good! Well, bad for me, hah. At Gencon and again at Reapercon, I saw convention prices that had a dual pack of the Patriot 105 and Sotar 2020 (the wide area and detail brushes, respectively) for about the same $$ as what I paid for my Sotar alone. Made me get a knot in my stomach and move on to the next booth.
  17. I haven't looked to see if he will be at PAX-U, but the Badger booth has had some outrageous convention prices.
  18. Here's another mini-only KS...
  19. I'm not an expert on H&S stuff, but at face value they seem like a pretty good deal. I've been trying to find a reasonable justification for jumping in, but I just can't. We own a total of 4 Badger brushes between the two of us and can currently cover wide-area and detail painting (at least at our skill levels). ... but it's still tempting.
  20. I use Badger, not H&S, but this is mighty tempting.
  21. My order is shipping! My order is shipping! //Zoxe runs around with arms flapping. My order is shipping!
  22. I used to have a Ford Ranger that had a stick transmission. When we first moved here, I used it to haul brush and tree limbs after we cut open the driveway (all 900 ft of it). If the neighbors had a camera on my driveway, once upon a time they would have seen me hop out to adjust a few branches that were threatening to fall out of the bed only to realize I didn't set the parking break, the truck was in neutral, and the incline was steeper than I expected. The difference was... I got back in the truck before it gained any speed.
  23. Yah, I'm also curious on the logistics. From the article: "'An 1,800-pound canoe doesn’t move very fast,' he said." Launching something that big probably deserves a name, a speech, and a bottle of champagne smacked against it.
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