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Zoxe

Underdog
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Everything posted by Zoxe

  1. I am going to tag @Anne and @Konas so they get a ping. 😁
  2. There's some bronze and blue metallic colors in the shadows (they don't photograph well), but wanted to contrast the gold armor. This one is intended for display. I have another of this guy partially painted for my actual Freeblades army, and HIS is brass and gold color shift.
  3. Up on the paperclip keeping things clean will be no big deal. I did my main airbrushing on another cork (I bought a big bag of wine corks on amazon) and then transferred to the holder. Unless I drop a brush or sneeze or something, I'm not going to slop paint on the holder by hand.
  4. Work in progress and testing the DMG figure holder! I have a lot of work left to do. At present I'm trying to get all the base colors in on the figure and base so that I can see if everything works as I hope. I like the Hammer Head where it is, but the gold armor is a little messy in the highlighting (and doesn't photograph well at all). Need to paint his face, beard, and hammer handle. So far so, good. Ideally I'd get him done this week and have 1 figure entry waiting on Labor Day.
  5. I got in late Friday for the drop, but I did grab the Cherry one that you put up.
  6. Good luck to all with aspirations towards Gencon housing. We have our badges and our parking but once again don't expect to be staying downtown -- especially now that we see our queue time.
  7. You should be fine. Acrylics come off of gloss surfaces pretty easily with water and a paper towel if you catch it before it's fully cured. I don't know what rubbing alcohol would do to DMG finishes, but it eats acrylic paint - even cured acrylic - pretty quickly. I start and finish almost every mini with the airbrush, so I've generally NOT used a fancy holder - 20oz plastic bottle lids are my favorite (Gatorade, Vitamin Water) - but I have some pieces in work that I'd gladly swap to a more stable base, even if I have to swap back for the final airbrush shading. I know I don't want to be airbrushing with a fancy holder!
  8. @Konas if a Cherry 3 pack were to appear, I'd probably be interested. Our hobby room is on the 1st floor, with 2 large windows. While I can store out of direct light, I'm always worried about light fade on some of the nicer woods.
  9. I have nothing against birds. They are tasty when paired with green beans and mashed potatoes. Seriously tho: I didn't notice the design, I was totally distracted by the wood grain.
  10. One of the Katalox. THIS ONE, if I saved the right picture.
  11. I was tempted to go for a triple stack but went with a single instead!
  12. Years ago I was on a big project: hardware, software, pneumatics, all to be deployed in a harsh environment. Millions in development, millions more for test, and had it not been canceled it would have been a billion dollar program spanning several decades. Getting ready for our first big design review, we had to do a formal audit to assess our overall readiness against the formal requirements docs. Thousands of lines in excel. We had to go through each line one by one until we had a plan for each one. It became obvious that we needed to group similar content, so we started adding extra columns and categories to filter. One of these became a catch all that we named "Things that Suck." When you've been staring at the same excel sheet for 3 weeks straight, stuff like that is hilarious. Except, we forgot to Find-Replace it out and sent it to the multi-corporate international team that was contracted for the work. Live on a telecon, their highly paid, high power Chief Engineer started the conversation with, "Ok, let's start with Things that Suck." And then he giggled.
  13. I replied above, but wanted to add that Reaper Mini has been doing a big blitz on social media, with a ton more twitch streams, discord, and other forms of outreach. Aaron Lovejoy is my main instructor/influence, and was a guest on a couple of Reaper's Twitch Streams this week. I always recommend Miniature Monthly's videos for Airbrush 101, but it requires a patreon subscr. In this video Aaron does most of his Airbrush 101 content live on a twitch stream, no credit card required. Everything I do is basically derived from Aaron's advice over the past few years. Because of the format, it's a little chatty (vs. an instructional video). He actually starts talking about his setup around minute 13:30. PS: The lady on the right is (I think) Anne; if I'm connecting the dots correctly, she designed the line of paints for Reaper. If you ever get a chance to tour the Reaper factory, DO IT (i.e. via Reapercon). The machine they have to fill mini paint bottles is pretty cool.
  14. Hah! You're maybe not wrong. I started painting by accident. It's a very slippery slope. I bought Shadows of Brimstone and started assembly. "Oh, I'll just paint a solid color." "Hmm, I'll just dip shade them." "Huh, I should just teach myself to dry brush." "Yah, I should paint the teeth and the eyes." "Yup, the heroes need more detail than the monsters because they're heroes."
  15. Assembly is my favorite part. Results are quick and tangible (oh look! I assembled a thing!) and the excitement of playing with a new toy fresh out of the box/bag never gets old. Even with scraping mold lines, most nights I'd rather assemble than fill or paint.
  16. Hey! Sure, happy to expand. Typing on phone, hope this makes sense. Yes, I work from darkest to lightest. Black primer, then the 3 color stack. The darkest color is sprayed up underneath, say at -45 degrees to the figure, and then another pass at almost neutral (parallel to the table). I rotate the figure all around but I'm okay if some black stays black in the darkest recesses. The second color is then sprayed parallel to the table and all around the figure. Then I come in at +45 degrees and spray the top. The middle color typically gets clobbered, but its job is to ease the transition from low to high and not necessarily be seen in the end result. Depending what I am trying to do, the top color might be sprayed all around the model or I might focus it in one spot to provide a spotlight effect (Usually the brightest highlight will be on the face and one shoulder, and a secondary dinner highlight on the opposite side of the figure to light the back). In the case of the flower knight, I sprayed the green paint all around because I knew I was going to put the lighting in with inks. I like this result but know my lights and shadows need more contrast. I wiped out a lot of my early work with later airbrushing. One or two passed with the hand brush are probably in order. There are a lot of things you can play with. For flower knight, I used 3 colors with similar temperature and saturation. But I've had good luck doing a neutral to cool dark charcoal as the foundation for a warm creamy highlight. If I can't find a good middle color I mix the high and low.
  17. Mice and Mystics. We did the first mission today, pretty fun.
  18. Had the day off today, so I worked on my KDM flower knight. I built him awhile ago, primed him yesterday. Intent is a quick hit and run, not a competition piece by any stretch. I think I have 2 hours invested from the point where I started priming. I didn't have a set plan/recipe, other than a vague notion that I was going to do a color stack >> wash >> airbrush inks. Disclaimer: Crappy cell phone pictures abound; I'll get out the light booth and take some glamour shots when he's actually done. Colors are off and most of the pictures are overexposed. Started with a 3-color stack. If I don't do a full test piece, I at least put some on a paper towel to see if I like it. Color stack done. I liked the brightness of the top green layer. I hit it with some AP Strong Tone, unthinned. I wanted the brown wash to complement the green (vs. a blue or a black wash). In hindsight this did the job great but I probably should have used the Light Tone or thinned it a little. No time to cry about what could have been. I did some directional lighting with Liquitex Titanium White ink. I'm using this to back the next color to make it stand out. I re-sprayed most of the white areas with Liquitex Vivid Lime Green ink. This brought the saturated lime color back up. It's semi-transparent, so the wash in the recesses still showed dark. From here I was dabbling with colors; Liquitex Vivid Red Orange and Yellow Orange. I did dry brush the flowers a little bit with some Monument Titanium White so that the yellow popped a bit. I went up underneath and sprayed a little Liquitex Burnt Umber to put some burnt/brown orange in the shadows With the airbrushing done, I spent 10 minutes putting Monument Titanium White in the eye sockets (backing coat) and then some hand-brushing with Reaper Candel Light Yellow around the helm and some of the armor bits. That bought me enough time that the White in the eyes had dried, and I painted them yellow. At this point, I could call it done. The Liquitex Inks are a satin finish (not matte), so I should probably spray the flowers with a matte varnish, and I haven't painted the stone face on the base (other than overspray). I'll let him sit a day or two and see what I feel like doing next. It's far from perfect, but not bad for the time that I've got invested. (I actually own another Flower Knight that I could paint more carefully ... but plenty on the bench at the moment).
  19. Have been away from this project for a few weeks (and if I say 'a few' it's probably been closer to 6 or 8). All the hull sections are joined and pinned with sections of paperclip. Honestly, as I got into the project, I kept finding more and more little molding issues that tempered my enthusiasm. I've got a lot of time invested already scraping and cleaning off minor mold blowouts, and I have quite a bit to go before I think about applying primer. (If this were for just me, I'd shrug and move on, but the intent here is a credible high caliber contest entry). (Admission: I cruised the internet last night looking for an alternate model to enter). You can also see some lines etched in the surface - the master is probably a 3D print, and the silicone mold picked them up. Most of these will need to go. Yesterday I started sanding and scraping. It's tedious because I can't wipe off the bumps and doodads all over the hull. In particular, I need to fix the step between the hull sections. In the first picture below, I've sanded and shaped to make the hull lines match up. In the second picture you can see where I started from. I'll need to get everything flush and then will fill the gap between sections with Aves Epoxie Sculpt. You can also see the hole where I drilled at an angle between the two pieces. I straightened a paperclip and used 2 part epoxy to reinforce the glue joint. Two holes per section - one top, one bottom. Don't need the keel fracturing down the road! I was able to hide the holes in the bottom, but there was no choice but to drill in a very visible spot from the top. In this picture, I've just filled the paperclip hole with Ave's. I may have some more work to blend it fully.
  20. I'm great today. Now Mrs. Zoxe is getting it.
  21. We went from mid 30s to to around 60 degrees last weekend and then dropped back to the 30s. I had a splitting sinus headache all day Saturday - I can't think of a time where I had a more debilitating weather change. I don't get migraines but that headache laid me out flat. Today it was in the 20s all day with wind chill below zero. Yes, winter is back. As I type, I'm hearing ice pelt the skylights in our greatroom. Winter weather advisory and just over an inch of ice expected. Hopefully we keep our power lines up.
  22. For the cost difference between VIG and normal badge, you could Uber from a non-downtown hotel, get dropped at the main entrance AND have $$ left over to spend a ton on the show floor. Actually, the same is true if you compared costs between staying in a connected hotel and staying 15 minutes out. The Hotel Lottery is pretty expensive now. (I would love to do it for 1 or 2 nights but they insist on a 4 night minimum stay).
  23. I expect a rush at the bigger cons. I mean, the Gencon Hotel Lottery is ... a Lottery. Reaper is (was?) a 1300 person grassroots convention using the standard Hilton infrastructure for reservations (the same 'group code' that you'd use to get into your cousin's wedding). Last year it sold out in weeks/months. To compress that to an hour is a big shift. I guess this means they've graduated to the big time - and I'm curious to see how much growth they experience at the actual show.
  24. Reapercon hotel reservations went up yesterday. They have a very advantageous room rate for the Embassy Suites where the convention is held. I thought the hotel bookings opened TODAY (Saturday) instead of yesterday, so I logged in last night after work to find that the block of rooms sold out in an hour (!!!). Last year it took several months to sell the block (and then they negotiated another). An hour is a little crazy to say the least. There's an overflow hotel but it's so much nicer to be on property. There are still rooms available at the hotel (just not at the 'con rate) - I managed to get a room at the AAA rate and then used Hilton Honors points to offset the cost. I almost got down to the 'con rate that way.
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