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  3. Forgot to take a picture but we played a game of Isle of Cats and it was quite fun. My husband trounced me, but still fun :). Its very much a strategy game which I am not usually good at, so no surprise. It has a solo mode and a family mode (a simplified version of the game). Pretty neat.
  4. Last week
  5. Why are the bard and druids always so cute and so fragile in game play.
  6. Mini dogs. Two of them got too dark, darn it.
  7. Ya got that one to play with my kids it should be fun.
  8. Oooh, nice! Piratoons looks really fun, I've never heard of it before.
  9. Hey! Sure, happy to expand. Typing on phone, hope this makes sense. Yes, I work from darkest to lightest. Black primer, then the 3 color stack. The darkest color is sprayed up underneath, say at -45 degrees to the figure, and then another pass at almost neutral (parallel to the table). I rotate the figure all around but I'm okay if some black stays black in the darkest recesses. The second color is then sprayed parallel to the table and all around the figure. Then I come in at +45 degrees and spray the top. The middle color typically gets clobbered, but its job is to ease the transition from low to high and not necessarily be seen in the end result. Depending what I am trying to do, the top color might be sprayed all around the model or I might focus it in one spot to provide a spotlight effect (Usually the brightest highlight will be on the face and one shoulder, and a secondary dinner highlight on the opposite side of the figure to light the back). In the case of the flower knight, I sprayed the green paint all around because I knew I was going to put the lighting in with inks. I like this result but know my lights and shadows need more contrast. I wiped out a lot of my early work with later airbrushing. One or two passed with the hand brush are probably in order. There are a lot of things you can play with. For flower knight, I used 3 colors with similar temperature and saturation. But I've had good luck doing a neutral to cool dark charcoal as the foundation for a warm creamy highlight. If I can't find a good middle color I mix the high and low.
  10. Finally took a chop saw to the manzanita burl we got at my buddy’s ranch. Still need to fill with resin for the gaps. But it should make some epic stuff!
  11. This is sweet. Thanks so much for posting. Could you go into more detail about the initial color stacking? Do you start dark and move up through the lighter colors? If you don't mind...
  12. I can't get "Zoro, The Gay Blade" out of my head. I really like the colors. Especially around the bustle area.
  13. Nothing on my table yet but got my Xmas gift from the wife tonight.
  14. I have been wanting this since it came out. I think it would be great fun with my boys.
  15. Mice and Mystics. We did the first mission today, pretty fun.
  16. Had the day off today, so I worked on my KDM flower knight. I built him awhile ago, primed him yesterday. Intent is a quick hit and run, not a competition piece by any stretch. I think I have 2 hours invested from the point where I started priming. I didn't have a set plan/recipe, other than a vague notion that I was going to do a color stack >> wash >> airbrush inks. Disclaimer: Crappy cell phone pictures abound; I'll get out the light booth and take some glamour shots when he's actually done. Colors are off and most of the pictures are overexposed. Started with a 3-color stack. If I don't do a full test piece, I at least put some on a paper towel to see if I like it. Color stack done. I liked the brightness of the top green layer. I hit it with some AP Strong Tone, unthinned. I wanted the brown wash to complement the green (vs. a blue or a black wash). In hindsight this did the job great but I probably should have used the Light Tone or thinned it a little. No time to cry about what could have been. I did some directional lighting with Liquitex Titanium White ink. I'm using this to back the next color to make it stand out. I re-sprayed most of the white areas with Liquitex Vivid Lime Green ink. This brought the saturated lime color back up. It's semi-transparent, so the wash in the recesses still showed dark. From here I was dabbling with colors; Liquitex Vivid Red Orange and Yellow Orange. I did dry brush the flowers a little bit with some Monument Titanium White so that the yellow popped a bit. I went up underneath and sprayed a little Liquitex Burnt Umber to put some burnt/brown orange in the shadows With the airbrushing done, I spent 10 minutes putting Monument Titanium White in the eye sockets (backing coat) and then some hand-brushing with Reaper Candel Light Yellow around the helm and some of the armor bits. That bought me enough time that the White in the eyes had dried, and I painted them yellow. At this point, I could call it done. The Liquitex Inks are a satin finish (not matte), so I should probably spray the flowers with a matte varnish, and I haven't painted the stone face on the base (other than overspray). I'll let him sit a day or two and see what I feel like doing next. It's far from perfect, but not bad for the time that I've got invested. (I actually own another Flower Knight that I could paint more carefully ... but plenty on the bench at the moment).
  17. Have been away from this project for a few weeks (and if I say 'a few' it's probably been closer to 6 or 8). All the hull sections are joined and pinned with sections of paperclip. Honestly, as I got into the project, I kept finding more and more little molding issues that tempered my enthusiasm. I've got a lot of time invested already scraping and cleaning off minor mold blowouts, and I have quite a bit to go before I think about applying primer. (If this were for just me, I'd shrug and move on, but the intent here is a credible high caliber contest entry). (Admission: I cruised the internet last night looking for an alternate model to enter). You can also see some lines etched in the surface - the master is probably a 3D print, and the silicone mold picked them up. Most of these will need to go. Yesterday I started sanding and scraping. It's tedious because I can't wipe off the bumps and doodads all over the hull. In particular, I need to fix the step between the hull sections. In the first picture below, I've sanded and shaped to make the hull lines match up. In the second picture you can see where I started from. I'll need to get everything flush and then will fill the gap between sections with Aves Epoxie Sculpt. You can also see the hole where I drilled at an angle between the two pieces. I straightened a paperclip and used 2 part epoxy to reinforce the glue joint. Two holes per section - one top, one bottom. Don't need the keel fracturing down the road! I was able to hide the holes in the bottom, but there was no choice but to drill in a very visible spot from the top. In this picture, I've just filled the paperclip hole with Ave's. I may have some more work to blend it fully.
  18. Earlier
  19. I'm great today. Now Mrs. Zoxe is getting it.
  20. I hope you feel better soon. My lower back is thinking about, maybe, just maybe, getting a little better.
  21. We went from mid 30s to to around 60 degrees last weekend and then dropped back to the 30s. I had a splitting sinus headache all day Saturday - I can't think of a time where I had a more debilitating weather change. I don't get migraines but that headache laid me out flat. Today it was in the 20s all day with wind chill below zero. Yes, winter is back. As I type, I'm hearing ice pelt the skylights in our greatroom. Winter weather advisory and just over an inch of ice expected. Hopefully we keep our power lines up.
  22. Oof, yikes! Thank goodness Washtenaw County is so protected. 😋
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